![]() ![]() You cannot think in terms of visible spectrum since the only light that passes the filter is 720nm or more. If you are not getting vigetting with a regular shot at the aperture of interest then any darkening is more about the physics of the light received. There is no vignetting in the traditional sense - i.e., light fallout from filter or aperture. Can hardly tell it was there but I noticed a bit of vignetting in the first processed photo. That's quite promising Al, thanks for posting. As you stop down the spot gets smaller but more concentrated.ĭefault Settings for Color Enhancement - clicked on BlueĬorrected settings for the above picture. Note: The hot spot itself will be lighter and wider at wider apertures. It has worked great with my 18-55 so it should work as well with other lenses. Then, move the Hue Affinity slider a bit to the right until you the greats color diminishment.ĭ) Play around with the Saturation and Lightness sliders to fine tune In Photo Ninja go to Color Enhancement (similar to Hue/Saturation in adobe).Ĭ) Move Reference Hue slider around until you see the least amount of blue - this indicates you are working with the correct shade of hot spot blue. (If clouds and trees it is often best to click on the clouds so you can play with faux color in the trees doing more advanced methods like channel swapping. Simply use the WB eye dropper tool on the area you want to neutralize, cloud, trees, grass. This is a much better starting point than using Auto WB and trying to correct in post since you might now have enough latitude to completely fix. The Custom WB is set by pointing at something green and setting to make that neutral (or close to neutral). I shoot with a Hoya R72 filter on my XE camera in RAW with WB set to Custom. The pictures below are not optimized (exposure/contrast.) for an end result, just the first step, WB correction, and the second step (hot spot correction) in the work flow. Of course we have many Raw converter options so below I will simply describe my 'simple' method using Photo Ninja.īelow is my recipe. Perhaps it is an X-trans interpretation, I do not know and you are welcome to try. ![]() Ideally this method, outlined below, should work with any RAW converter but I only tried with adobe ACR (not obsessively) and could not get to work as well. So far it worked on every image I tested - no artifacts or halos. Again, it is often a lot of work to get results that were far from perfect, especially when viewed closely.Īnyway, now that Photo Ninja is my main converter I decided to play around and was glad I did since the results on the several tests were excellent. One of my first tricks was to start with Nik Viveza control points and work from there. I played with various methods last year but was never pleased - a lot of work with less than optimal results unless the contaminated area was cloneable. I revised the possibility of removing the hot spot from lenses, particularly the Fuji 18-55 lens, for use with near IR shooting.
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